量脚师的“私人订制”

2014-05-12 11:14

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标签：私人定制脚师

当今，手工工艺潜隐于物件上的温情与灵魂，已经难以在流水线复制的商品时代体味到。纯手工订制服务正变成一个在中国渐成气候的产业链——高端私人定制。相比流水线工厂里一天生产近万双鞋，在这里17个熟练的师傅全力以赴一天只能做5双鞋，而最复杂的手工缝制部分更得一寸5针，做一双鞋时常要一个多月。图/文中新网记者金硕

量脚师的“私人订制”

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盘点令人吃惊的中国奢华酒店建筑

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                "prevue": "当今，手工工艺潜隐于物件上的温情与灵魂，已经难以在流水线复制的商品时代体味到。纯手工订制服务正变成一个在中国渐成气候的产业链——高端私人定制。相比流水线工厂里一天生产近万双鞋，在这里17个熟练的师傅全力以赴一天只能做5双鞋，而最复杂的手工缝制部分更得一寸5针，做一双鞋时常要一个多月。图/文 中新网记者 金硕",
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                   "note": "他叫麻学平，作为专业量脚师在这个厂子已经待了45年，自打父亲那辈就开始量脚制鞋。他说：“过去都是给贵族，有钱人做鞋，一点一点延续量脚订做，难度就在误差不能超过两三毫米，这个难度，我将近用了十年的时间专门研究它。”",
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                   "note": "最近这五年，麻学平量了5000多人的脚型，他跟别人不太一样，每一个脚型都去分析，做完了之后合适、不合适，差在什么地方，都去研究。而量脚是订制手工皮鞋的第一步，需要详细记录下客户脚部各处围度、长度和高度。",
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                   "note": "早年间，父亲在鞋厂工作，麻学平从小就对鞋毫无兴趣。一次，别人送来的手工鞋制作精良穿着舒适，既没有脚气也不起静电，才让他真正感到惊艳。",
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                   "note": "麻学平边制作鞋楦边说道：“知之者不如乐之者，乐之者不如好之者。你喜欢它去钻研，它便不是一种痛苦，是一种乐趣，如果你干哪一行，你把它当成痛苦的事情了，你就钻不进去。”",
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                   "note": "像这样经过反复测量，最少需要两次。每个人的脚型上午与下午还不大一样，鞋不大分，衣不大寸，可见做鞋的难度，大于5个毫米就大了一号，穿着就不合适了。",
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                   "note": "在每次量脚的30多分钟里，不仅要取得精准的数据，还要与客人沟通，了解客人对鞋的一切需求。根据每次量脚的数据，量脚师会为每个顾客打造专属鞋楦。",
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                   "note": "与顾客沟通的时候还要看他是什么职业，客户有一些是成功人士 ，还有一些是有特殊脚型的人。比如篮球运动员，苏伟和唐正东就是鞋厂的老顾客，他们的鞋尺码都在50号以上。",
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                   "note": "其实早在1928年，北京就出现了私人订制的鞋店，为当时的权贵和富商制作皮鞋。麻学平所在的鞋厂前身是东单鞋厂，六十年代盛极一时给国家领导人也做过鞋。",
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                   "note": "随着时代变迁，东单皮鞋厂淡出人们的视野，而东单皮鞋厂的底蕴与那些技艺深厚的老工人们则被有眼光的投资人相中，在此处继续着他们看似简单枯燥，但又内藏深厚底蕴与门道的工作。",
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                   "note": "已经年近花甲的麻学平耳朵有点背，如今很多量脚的活也会交给徒弟干，自己在一旁监督指导。",
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                   "note": "麻学平说：“艺术家寻找模特是锦上添花，而对于我们这个行业来说，尤其是订做特型鞋，就属于雪中送炭，难度很高。” ",
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                   "note": "在这间厂房里，“上工牌”、“德国百福”制鞋缝纫机用了六十来年，依旧运转良好。",
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                   "note": "从整块皮革面料的选择、剪裁、染色、拼贴全部由手工技师完成。",
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                   "note": "皮革剪裁后还要根据不同客户的实际需求打孔制作花纹图案。",
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                ,
                {
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                   "note": "缝底每针5mm、沿条每针10mm、沿条厚3.5mm至4mm……每双鞋的每一项制作工艺，都有着精确的要求。",
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                   "note": "同样做手工技师的王凤才也厂子里的老员工，他的父亲在厂子里干了四十多年，他如今也子承父业一干就是三十多年。",
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                   "note": "手工鞋的制作既需要昂贵的材料，又需要精细的手工，这在麻学平看来，手工皮鞋就是鞋中不折不扣的“官窑”。",
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                   "note": "在他看来，如今这个突显个性的时代里，自己这份老手艺反而更有用武之地。",
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                   "note": "闲暇时的麻学平最喜欢逛商场，在大街上看到好鞋就盯着看很久，也曾经因此被误认为是坏人。他说：“这属于条件反射，走在大街上，看到一双好鞋会跟着人家走一段，最起码得走个三四百米仔细端详。”",
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                   "note": "“干这行的辛苦撑不死你，你也饿不着，对手艺人来说历来如此。”麻学平虽然收徒不少，但他最希望的还是自己的儿子将来能把手艺传承下去。",
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